Photography Calculators
Shutter Angle Calculator
https://www.photosizing.com/calculators/shutter-angle/
Estimate only — not a light meter, a shooting prescription or a studio plot. Confirm on a test shot.
Shutter Angle Calculator
Motion-picture shutters are angles, not 1/50. Time = angle / (360 × fps). 180° at 24 fps is 1/48 s — the usual ‘film look’ of motion blur. In daylight that time wants ND, not f/16. Take a test shot (or a test clip) before you lock the angle for a whole interview.
Inputs
Results
- Shutter
- 0.020833s
- Shutter reciprocal
- 48.0
48 means 1/48 s. Set the nearest speed the body offers.
Recommended gear
Gimbal stabilizer
180° at 24 fps is 1/48 — slow enough that walk-and-talk needs a gimbal or a lot of technique.
Typical range: $200–$700
ND filter kit
You cannot hold 1/48 at f/2.8 in sun without ND. A 3/6/10 kit is the usual video bag.
Typical range: $40–$120
Field monitor
Judge motion blur and flicker on a monitor, not a flip screen in sun.
Typical range: $200–$800
Calculation method
A full circle is 360°. The fraction of the frame time the shutter is open is angle/360. Frame time is 1/fps, so open time is angle divided by (360 times fps). 180/ (360×24) = 1/48 s. Reciprocal is 1/time so you can match a stills-style shutter speed on bodies that do not speak degrees.
Exact formula
t = shutterAngleDeg / (360 × fps). Reciprocal = 1/t. Limits: Rolling shutter, flicker from lights, and the ND needed to hold 180° in sun omitted.
Related calculations
- ND filter exposure — how many stops to hold that 1/48 in daylight
- slow-motion pacing — when record fps and playback fps differ
Saving the 180° look in sun
ND first, then ISO, then aperture if you still have light. Stopping down to f/16 to ‘make 1/48 work’ is how you get diffraction and a busy background you did not want.
Stills shooters
1/focal is a shake rule. 180° is a motion-blur rule. They only coincide by accident (50 mm at 24 fps is near 1/48).
Frequently asked questions
My camera only has 1/50, not 1/48.
Set 1/50. The look is the same for all practical purposes. Some bodies offer 1/48 in a ‘shutter angle’ or ‘fine’ shutter menu — use it if you have it.
High frame rate?
180° at 120 fps is 1/240. You need a lot more light (or ISO/aperture). Do not keep 1/48 when you jump to 120 or you will smear every frame.
Flicker from LEDs?
Match shutter to the mains (1/50 or 1/60 and multiples) even if that is not exactly 180°. A clean clip beats a pure angle.
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